Gaia Series 59 : Food in Japan - A battle you can't lose
Japan’s culinary team prepares for the prestigious Bocuse d’Or, blending skill, passion, and teamwork to represent the nation on the world stage of haute cuisine.
· CNA · JoinJapan’s top culinary talents face the pressure of the Bocuse d’Or competition, a World Cup of haute cuisine, as they prepare to represent the nation with precision, passion, and flavour.
In the competitive world of haute cuisine, where every detail matters, Japan’s top chefs have their sights set on a monumental goal: winning the prestigious Bocuse d’Or. Named after legendary chef Paul Bocuse, it is the world’s most renowned culinary competition, held in Lyon, France biennially.
This episode of Japan Hour offers a gripping look at the Japanese team ‘s journey, revealing the intricate balance of skill, creativity, and pressure as they prepare to compete against the world’s best chefs.
Japanese sous chef Ryuya Kainuma, who has been with the Tokyo-based haute cuisine restaurant Sens et Saveurs for over 10 years, is starting to feel the heat as the competition approaches. “I do feel a lot of pressure. Because I'm representing Japan, I am fighting for the whole country,” he confesses, highlighting the weight of expectation that accompanies this rare opportunity.
The Bocuse d’Or, which has been held 20 times since 1987, is often referred to as the World Cup of French cuisine. In its long history, Japan has only medalled once, securing third place in 2013. The competition attracts 24 of the world’s best chefs, each one pushing the limits of their culinary prowess to create dishes that not only taste incredible but also look like works of art. Each chef must create an appetiser, main course, and dessert for 15 people, all within a tight time limit of 5 hours and 30 minutes. Winning this contest has become a major aspiration for Japan’s French culinary sector, and this year’s team has their sights set on the top prize.
As the episode progresses, we follow Kainuma during his first tasting session in preparation for the competition. He meticulously prepares a sea bass pie, a classic French dish. Two of Japan’s most respected chefs, Kenichiro Sekitani and Hajime Yoneda, both holders of three Michelin stars, sample the dish. While it looks impressive, Yoneda offers a harsh critique: “Did you really think this was delicious when you were making it? Ultimately, it's unimpressive.” His critique is a reminder that even the most visually stunning dishes must pass the ultimate test of taste.
Kainuma's struggle to balance creativity with the exacting standards of the competition is a key theme in the episode. After the critique, he reflects, “It seems like my inner hesitations manifested on the plate. I realise that now.” This moment of introspection reveals the deep emotional stakes involved in representing Japan at such a high-profile event.
One of the challenges that Kainuma and the Japanese team face is the limited financial support for their preparations. In contrast to some European countries, where governments provide substantial funding to support their chefs, allowing them to close their restaurants for a year and focus entirely on the competition, Japan’s culinary teams must bear the financial burden themselves. “The restaurant needs to bear the costs itself, so that means there is little time for practice,” Kainuma explains. This disparity becomes particularly evident when compared to the Danish team, which has secured three victories and boasts strong government support.
Despite the obstacles, Kainuma’s dedication shines through as he undergoes rigorous training at Chef Hajime Yoneda’s three-star restaurant in Osaka. The intensity of the training is palpable, as the episode shows Kainuma mastering intricate techniques, such as shaping spinach puree into delicate leaves. At one point, he marvels at the kitchen’s efficiency: “The speed at which they work is completely different to other restaurants. The quality of the staff is completely different.” This experience is vital, as Kainuma must compete at a level where the smallest detail could determine the outcome of the competition.
Japan placed 12th out of 24 countries in the last Bocuse d’Or, a disappointing result given the country's rich culinary tradition. France, the birthplace of the competition, ranked fifth, while Denmark took home the gold for the third time. These numbers underscore the challenge that lies ahead for Team Japan, who aim not just to participate but to win.
Anecdotes from the chefs bring colour to the episode, adding depth to the narrative. Yoneda, who trained in France and later opened his own restaurant, shares his experience of working in the high-stakes world of French cuisine. “I thought it would be cool to be a chef and compete against the best in the world,” Kainuma reflects, echoing the sentiment of many aspiring chefs who see the Bocuse d’Or as a defining moment in their careers.
Throughout the episode, we witness Kainuma’s continued evolution as a chef. Through the different training he receives and the many taste tests his betters critique, he diligently learns to be better. His ability to learn from mistakes, his relentless pursuit of perfection, and his commitment to teamwork all shine through.
“I plan on winning the Bocuse d’Or. I want to win it and then come back here and show you all the trophy,” Kainuma declares, his determination palpable. This bold ambition is shared by the entire Japanese team, who are driven not just by personal achievement but by a desire to elevate Japan’s culinary reputation on the global stage.
Ultimately, this episode offers a captivating glimpse into the world of international culinary competitions, blending technical mastery with personal narratives of perseverance and passion. For viewers, it’s not just about food – it’s about the journey of a young chef who embodies the spirit of Japan as he strives for greatness on the world stage.
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